Envision: Artopia in review

by Jahna Peloquin

Leave it to Allison Hamzehpour and Jessica Cunningham, founders of Ignite Models Inc., to throw one of the best-produced, see-and-be-seen fashion shows going down during MNfashion Week every season: Envision. The gorgeous ladies - both former models themselves - seem to balance running a fledgling modeling agency and throwing regularly occurring events with equal aplomb.

[A look from Bumbershute / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

This spring’s Envision was decadently subtitled “Artopia," a nod to the bright colors, painterly prints and voluminous silhouettes of the season, and the show’s boutiques and designers - not to mention lead stylist Alice Sydow of I've Got Your Style - didn’t come up short in this area. After an interactive hair show that featured hair stylists live in action on the runway, the show kicked off with spring looks from some of the Twin Cities’ most-loved local boutiques. Bumbershute showcased edgy body-con and glittering drapey dresses that would be at home in a Robert Palmer video or on the dance floor of Studio 54, respectively. (It didn’t hurt that the models were chic-ly styled with slicked back hair, bold red lips and kohl-rimmed eyes.)

[A look from Drama / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Next up, local boutique Drama offered looks that were perfectly feminine, modern and wearable in a simple black, white and grey palette - all the better when stylist Angie Hanson added a Drama-tic! touch with bold jeweled statement necklaces.

[A look from Elsworth / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Our fave destination for sophisticated menswear, Elsworth, was up next with a segment that merged its dapper aesthetic with a geek-chic style and street sensibility. Layered looks featuring cardigans, bowties and oxfords came down to earth with denim and just a little bit of swagger. And the propping was pure Keith Dorsett and Jordin Filas (the shop’s owner and manager, respectively) - one bespectacled model sauntered down the runway with a book in hand, while a bow-tied fellow took an umbrella with him, which upon opening revealed a graffiti art design. Who knew nerds could be so hot?

[A look from Cliche / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Local Motion, OPM and VState followed with a plethora of trends: Strong shoulders, feminine ruffles, and bold prints. But it was one of our all-time fave local boutiques, Cliche, that stole the show with denim-dominated and color-drenched looks topped with Carmen Miranda-inspired headpieces. Apparently, the fruit basket hats and headwraps were the ingenious handiwork of designer Emily Bryngelson and stylist Andrea Oseland. As a “guest judge,” I and the rest of the illustrious panel - Mary O’Regan of METRO Magazine, Allison Kaplan of Pioneer Press, Jen Boyles of City Pages, and Hollie Mae of HMStyling among others - chose Cliche as the clear winner of the boutique segment.

[A look by kjurek couture / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

After an intermission to refill our drinks and entertain ourselves by watching DJ Ken Hannigan bob his head to the beats along to a live soul singer, the second half of the show began. As usual, Kimberly Jurek’s kjurek couture was effortlessly chic, tempering her trademark bohemian flair with adorable skirts and ruffle-front dresses in a plethora of exotic, colorful prints. It was also exciting to see one of Jurek’s strongest pieces, the jacket, return to her collection.

[A look by Amanda Christine / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Amanda Christine showcased her tailored and extremely wearable dresses, skirts and tops that - thanks to textured cottons and printed silks juxtaposed with sharp cutout details - are as perfect for the yacht as for the dance club. Another longtime Cliche designer, Arwyn Birch, showed an increasingly diversified collection of dresses, incorporating lace and ruffles into her knit and belted designs.

[A look by Russell Bourrienne / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Esteemed local designer Russell Bourrienne yet again offered a fresh take on menswear in a collection of cropped trench coats in plaids, stripes citrus brights that had l’etoile magazine art director Chris Larson’s tongue watering. Our favorite piece had to be the hunter green-and-white plaid trench, which clearly deserves a spot in the wardrobe of Gossip Girl’s Chuck Bass.

[A look by Jenny Carle / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Jenny Carle’s on-trend collection of denim and pastel dresses, skirts and tops exhibited the designer’s penchant for the sweet (bows, retro collars and ruffles). The designer appears to grow exponentially each season, her casual, girlish aesthetic tempered by a slightly bolder silhouette and luxurious fabrics, and increased attention to detail and fit. The whimsical woodland crowns were a nice touch.

[A look by Peloria / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

The dresses and separates by longtime Cliche line Peloria (by designer Korrin Lohmann) featured unusual cutouts,which worked in some cases, and seemed overwrought in others. Lohmann has always been known to incorporate a unique artistic perspective to her clothing, but it doesn’t always translate as wearable or flattering (or well-executed). However, the line did feature more tailored, sophisticated silhouettes than we’re used to seeing from the designer, and the juicy colors really set off the collection.

[A look by Rose White / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

The winner of the designer segment was the evening’s biggest mysteries to even those firmly entrenched in the fashion scene. The line, Rose White, came courtesy of recent St. Kate’s grad Amanda Chaffin, who once interned under Amanda Christine. The young designer came up with a au-courant collection of neutral separates that made up the most sophisticated line - and one of the most well-styled - of the evening. The drapey pants, one-shouldered tanks, gathered-waist skirts and elegant blouses didn’t exactly break the mold for originality, but it was a fresh, cohesive and well-executed statement from a designer who’s certainly one to watch. And: she did swimwear! Quite a feat, if you ask any designer. Accessorized with darling sheer white gloves and white gauzy veils, it felt classic yet perfectly now.

[A look by Sarah M. Holm / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

The show ended on a dark note with Sarah M. Holm’s nearly all-black collection. It struck us as overly derivative of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga, with headpieces completely enveloping the models’ faces and elongated sleeves straight out of a Tim Burton movie. But despite the darkness, the collection did cleverly play into spring via the idea of rain. The umbrella-shaped skirts and headpieces (finished with a drip-like effect) seemed a bit obvious and a little wonky, but the drip-shaped cutouts and black rubber rainboots were subtle and well-executed. Obviously, most of these looks are meant for only the fashionably brave, but, as Lee Alexander McQueen once said, “You have to push forward and realize the power of fantasy and escapism.”

All photos by Chris McDuffie.

MNfashion Week Recap #4: 9/25

Friday, September 25: SGSM, Eat Street Fashion, kjurek couture, and Eat Street after party

by Jahna Peloquin

[A kjurek couture look modeled by Tearra; Image by Denis Jeong Plaster Perfecta Pictures]

We’ve hit the weekend at MNfashion Week, meaning there is no conceivable way I can hit every single event. But it won’t be from any lack of trying. First up is the Fresh Fruits Basket Fashion Show at MCAD, part of the annual anime workshop Schoolgirls and Mobilesuits. It’s actually not part of MNfashion Week officially, but it seemed deserving of a spot on my agenda. The show is full of MCAD students, and I’m clearly one of the oldest people in the room. I’m there mainly for the Libertine Asylum, a local trio of neo-Victorian and Lolita designers. Well, not so local anymore – it turns out Megan Bishop and her line Apatico have moved to Seattle. Regardless, it appears she’ll still play a strong role in Libertine’s shows in the future (including the Carpe Noctem show at the Loft on November 6).

[Image by Drayke Larson/Photosynthetique]

The show started off with models dressed in animal pajamas. Samantha Rei of Blasphemina’s Closet filled me in: These are not mere pajamas, but “kigurumi” (or disguise) pajamas. “They are SUPER popular in Japan.” Popular characters include Stitch of “Lilo and Stitch,” Marie from “The Aristocrats,” Pikachu and Winnie the Pooh characters. Apparently, teens and young people wear them in public in Japans with tennis shoes, face jewels and backpacks.

[A look by Heather Luca; Image by Caitlin Longley for MCAD]

In the second half of the show, we get to see the latest from the Libertine ladies, which includes Heather Luca of Scoundrelle’s Keep, Megan Bishop, and Samantha Rei, as well as Atlanta-based Lolita designer Megan Maude. Luca showed her Neo-Victorian line of corsets, bloomer shorts, frilly skirts and blouses. The corsets in particular were a feat of technical skill, including an impressive excess of straps and buckles. Oh, and mini top hats?! Yes, please.

[A look by Samantha Rei; Image by Caitlin Longley for MCAD]

Next up were Megan Bishop and Samantha Rei, who showed mostly looks already seen at last week’s “Couture Noir” show. (Read my recap here ).) Bishop’s line is somewhat more wearable than the others, my favorite look being a pair of blouson suspender shorts made in a dark tweed paired with a sheer blouse. For her part, Rei made a fun addition – menswear, particularly side-button, Edwardian-styled vests. With their powdered hair and sooty eye make-up, the guys looked straight out of “Sweeney Todd.” Rei seems to be particularly adept at creating period looks that have just enough of a smart, modern twist to them to make them unique. Bonus trivia: Did you know Rei is one of the longest-running Lolita designers in the U.S.? She’s been at it for nine years now.

[A look by Megan Maude; Image by Caitlin Longley for MCAD]

In between Samantha Rei and Megan Bishop, we saw the work of Megan Maude. Her ultrafeminine blouses, dresses and skirts were just what you would imagine life-size dolls would wear if they could. I noticed at least two looks I would wear, particularly an adorable white dress - at least if a few of the ruffles were taken down a notch.

[Image by Stephen Stephens/Digital Crush]

The moment the show ended, I rushed off to stop by the Eat Street Fashion show at Head to Toe Salon. Blacklist Vintage, Lost & Found, and Head to Toe each were to put on a mini fashion show that featured their own customers as models. I stopped by the staging area to check out the looks up close, and Blacklist’s steampunk-themed collection appeared the best-styled of the bunch, and even featured – gasp – men in women’s clothing! (Check out Kate Iverson’s recap here.)

[A kjurek couture look modeled by Cana; Image by Denis Jeong Plaster Perfecta Pictures]

I realized I had better head to Kimberly Jurek’s show at the W Hotel before I was too late. I arrived to a warm welcome from Josh Sundberg, the co-owner of Cliché – one of the places Kimberly’s line kjurek couture is sold. I took my front-row seat at the front of the runway next to Angie Hanson, a l’etoile contributor and stylist for the “Couture Noir” and “SCENEaSOTA” shows. Her BF Ken Hannigan manned the turntables under the moniker DJ Real Talk Radio. (Check out a video of the show by Anthem Heart A/V.)

[A kjurek couture look modeled by Liz; Image by Denis Jeong Plaster Perfecta Pictures]

Jurek’s “Exclusively Fall” runway show was executed flawlessly, and showcased her wearable dresses, tops and skirts. Styled with Anna Lee’s new faux-fur babushka hats and luxe hat-wraps for Ruby3 and Zoby’s bold feather earrings, Jurek’s Indian summer collection was given just the right amount of a wintery touch, showing you can indeed wear a halter cowl-neck silk dress into the colder months. I particularly adored a flirty cotton dress in a bright yelow with a surprisingly low back, a full-length yellow dress, and an ivory coat with bell sleeves and an empire waist – one of kjurek couture’s trademark silhouettes. (I happened to be wearing a “vintage” kjurek couture design from Fall 2007 to the show.) I also can’t help but love on the models of the evening, provided by Ignite Models - Lily, Liz, and Tearra are such darlings.

[Jahna, center in kjurek couture coat, with Allison and Jessica of Ignite; Image provided by designer]

As things wound down, I found myself at the after party for Eat Street Fashion at Azia’s Caterpillar Lounge. There I spied a very chic table of peeps, including Blacklist model Zach Pearl, also known as a talented graphic designer, artist and stylist, sitting with the always-chic photographer Joe Kramm, stylist Danica Andler, local designer Laura Fulk, and Joe’s boyfriend Raul Osorio, also a model in the show. After ordering some scrumptious happy hour snacks (a spicy tuna roll and fresh herb roll) and Lychee-tinis with l’etoile’s own Kate Iverson and Beth Hammarlund, and finished off the night by ordering a bottle of the finest cham-pag-ne we can afford to toast Blacklist owners Vanessa Messersmith and Jennifer Sapiro on a job well done.