Voltage Designer Spotlight: Kathryn V

by Tara Sloane

This year’s first Voltage: Fashion Amplified spotlight is bright upon Kathryn V, Voltage first-timer and purveyor of chic, funky wares that even mother Earth would adore (her Voltage line is wrought one-hundred percent from sustainable fabrics). Fresh from the U of M’s design program, Kathryn has had quite the busy year (to say the least!). Her collection at the Minneapolis Fashion Initiative’s "Calamity!" show last spring was equal parts sophisticated and playful, polished with just-so details and textile prints, and at Envision: Artopia, she delighted us with 70s-reminiscent slouchy sweaters, paisley prints, and sailor pants. Kathryn finds inspiration in people and places, a process constantly evolving and manifesting in fresh, interesting new designs. We’re sure her Voltage line will be no exception – and we can’t wait to see what the rest of 2011 brings this keen designer.

Kathryn chatted with us about fabric hunting, her “crafty” first line, and the ever-changing design process behind her Voltage collection.

l’etoile: Your Voltage collection is made entirely from sustainable fabrics. What was it like working within the limits of environmentally friendly material? To what extent, if at all, did the material itself inspire your designs and/or help shape the concept for your line?

Kathryn: Working with sustainable materials has been one of the most challenging and rewarding experiences for my Voltage 2011 line. It uses fabrics that are not only organic cottons, but sustainable in a variety of ways. I am working with a variety of fabrics that use recycled fibers, low impact dyes, and come from suppliers that are using sustainable practices. One of my fabric suppliers ships their fabric in recycled boxes and uses old commercial patterns as packaging; how awesome is that?



Designing with environmentally friendly parameters has forced me to overcome many challenges, like restrictions in fabric color and type. These restrictions have changed the entire way I begin designing a line. In that past I have been able to start with an inspiration, develop a variety of silhouettes, imagine a color palette, and then chose my fabric based on those ideas. While I am often inspired by the textures and patterns that lead to the development of a line, fabric now begins and steers the entire design process. I have to choose my fabrics first since there are slim varieties of sustainable materials available.

Simply finding my materials has been half the battle. It hasn't been as easy as typing "eco fabric" into my Google bar. I spend hours sifting through fabric sites, talking to other designers and comparing fabrics. While it is a challenge now, there has been a fantastic shift in sustainable design with it receiving more and more attention. Especially in recent fashion shows, sustainable design is blossoming. The Organic line by John Patrick was one of my favorites from this past New York fashion week and I can only hope that with more designers working with these materials, the options available will continue to grow.

[photo from Envision 2010]

l’etoile: You started making clothes at the age of thirteen, and selling them at fifteen – that’s an entire young adulthood in the design world! How has starting at such a young age impacted you as you continue to grow as a designer? What principles or aesthetics have you stayed true to over the years?

Kathryn: I hesitate when saying I started selling clothing at fifteen. Not because I don’t feel like I wasn’t taking bold strides at a young age. But, because I started so young, and [being] so inexperienced I was inhibited from entering the fashion scene well built. I mean, my first “line” was a craft fest incorporating a black and white collar shirt paired with a multi colored, ribbon accented skirt (embarrassing). But, while I still need to work up the courage to pull those photos out of the shoebox, the trade-off for an invaluable experience has been worth it.

The first line I’m talking about started in high school with a friend, Andrea Bell. At that time we were mainly altering t-shirts and making simple patterns. We were self-taught but both pursued design in college, Andrea, at SAIC and myself at the University of Minnesota. I continued my design, independently moving to Design Collective and finally to Cliché, where I currently sell my garments. It was a long trek from there to here and I've learned a lot along the way. While those first garments were anything but a masterpiece I wouldn't take back that experience for anything. Trying, and failing, has taught me valuable lessons and I think I am a stronger designer because of it. Mostly, it has taught me that I will always be learning and that’s the main principle that has remained with me since the age of fifteen. There is always something to discover, which makes this industry so amazing. I never want to reach a point where I think I know everything, because there is nowhere to go from there.

[photo from Calamity by Rod Hasse]

l’etoile: From delineation and conception to construction and completed collection, do you find that your design inspiration is an external process, or something more instinctive? What is your typical method for bringing a concept from inception to a blossomed full collection?

Kathryn: Designing isn’t purely external or instinctive. It has been about finding a balance between the two because my designs will eventually be owned and used by someone else, so I need to work to meet their needs. Likewise, it can’t be entirely external or I’ll lose myself, and the things that differentiate my design from others. This balance isn’t something I’ve mastered. I struggle with it everyday. But, I try to stay true to what inspires me and not just follow the trends. I also could not succeed without the input and critique of those around me. My process is never the same but it always involves an inspiration or idea that is so exciting to me I can’t sleep. I love going through the process of ideation to mold that idea into something others want to wear.

l’etoile: What role does music play in your design modus operandi? Are there certain bands or particular songs you put on to cure a design funk?

Kathryn: I cannot work without music. It is the singular most important component to my workday aside from coffee. Done and done.

[Photo of Kathryn V's 2010 Fall Collection by Brad Ogbonna]

l’etoile: Now in its seventh year, Voltage: Fashion Amplified has only intensified in popularity and local talent. To what do you attribute Voltage's success and why do you think it continues to gain momentum?

Kathryn: Minnesota is amping up its enthusiasm for fashion design. This industry is growing in our city and it has come a long way in the past few years. But, in a location where runway shows were not always so accessible, Voltage has offered a generous mix of the well known: rock and roll, with the unfortunately less known: runway show. Voltage has pulled in huge crowds of people each year and acquainted a new population to the fashion design scene. I see Voltage continuing to thrive because of the dedication of those involved, and the always-interesting blend of music and fashion design that makes this show so unique. It is my first year showing in Voltage and I am incredibly excited to be a part of it.

Voltage: Fashion Amplified happens Friday, April 15th at First Avenue Night Club. For more information and to purchase tickets visit www.voltagefashionamplified.com.

For more info on Kathryn V, visit www.kathrynv.com.

MNfashion Week in review: Cliché's Crosswalk 9/23

It may have been a dark and rainy night, but that didn't stop the stylish set at Cliché from stalking the runway last Thursday. The runway, of course, being the busy intersection of Lyndale Avenue & 24th Street. In their second incarnation of the Crosswalk fashion show, Cliché debuted a smattering of the Fall collections available at their hip Uptown boutique.

Playful separates in warm autumn colors and chic n' cozy outerwear were the name of the game as models strolled the crosswalk, vamping for onlookers and passersby wearing fall looks by Tender Cuts, Kathryn V. and Niki English. And as usual, Cliche busted out with some fun and unique styling; from gothy lace face coverings to small, ornate lanterns which captured the creepy/cool vibe of autumn perfectly while still being fresh and upbeat.

All photos by Susannah Dodge

Tender Cuts:


Kathryn V.:


See more photos by Susannah Dodge from Crosswalk here.

In review: Calamity! fashion show

by Jahna Peloquin

If there's any sign the local fashion industry is alive and well, it's when it becomes self-sustaining. Believe it or not, there once was a time when Voltage: Fashion Amplified was the be-all, end-all opportunity for local designers to show their lines (in addition to boutique Cliché, long a seller and supporter of locally-produced fashion). Now, with Voltage acting as a signature event under the umbrella that has expanded into non-profit organization MNfashion, more and more designers are making their own statement in the local fashion scene - from conception to execution, and from production to promotion. Not to mention sewing, sewing, sewing!

[Look by Dawson; Image by Adam Reyna]

Today, many freshly-graduated design students don’t wait wide-eyed for opportunity to come to them - they make it happen for themselves. Leading that charge is the Minneapolis Fashion Initiative, a collaboration between four enterprising local designers (Emily Bryngelson, Amanda Chaffin, Niki English and Kathryn Sterner) and a jewelry designer/stylist (Andrea Oseland) - all of which have been selling at local boutique Cliché beginning as recently as last fall. The four presented their spring/summer 2010 collections in a group show, Calamity!, at the Lab Theater last Thursday evening.

[Look from Cliché; Image by Adam Reyna]

Kicking off the show was that fashion incubator itself, Cliché, showing a selection of styled looks from the national brands lining their racks. Denim made an impact (in the form of cutoffs and a sweet mini-dress) coupled with sheer blacks and wide-brimmed straw hats - a must-have accessory of the season.

[Look by Dawson; Image by Rod Hasse]

Next up, Amanda Chaffin's line Dawson hit the runway with a perfectly-styled pastel-print romper, with super-'70s round sunglasses and wide-brimmed woven hat. The St. Kate's 2009 grad (and former intern to Amanda Christine) showed an increasingly polished and cohesive collection. Some of the pieces were a little on the basic side - after all, why buy a locally-designed top you could easily find at American Apparel for half the price? The point of local design, besides supporting locally-made items, is for the special-ness factor. But with her incorporation of some interesting design elements (the twist-tie at the top of the shorts romper, draped ivory pants with pleating going the entire way around the waistline) into wearable, sellable pieces, Chaffin shows she's moved beyond "recent grad" status to be one to watch in local design.

[Look by Dawson; Image by Adam Reyna]

Oh, and did we mention, she did swimwear? Yes, and not only swimwear (a tricky item for a designer to tackle), but statement-making swimwear featuring a lovely floral print and interesting cutout details. Love that she did cover-ups to make it a complete look.

[Look by Kathryn V; Image by Adam Reyna]

Next up we have Kathryn V by Kathryn Sterner. The designer first seen at last fall's Scene-A-Sota fashion show has come a long way - her designs are increasingly sophisticated and polished, not to mention cohesive and wearable. In her spring line, she incorporated some interesting textile prints to add some interest, and a few cute details (a faux-peplum look on the vests, and a top ruffle to an otherwise fairly basic but excellently-fitted strapless jumper). As is the case with many fresh-faced designers, Sterner's line lacked a definitive aesthetic, but we can only hope that continues to be developed.

[Look by Tender Cuts; Image by Rod Hasse]

The highlight of the night when it came to execution, uniqueness, wearability and styling, was Tender Cuts. I've been a supporter of designer Emily Brygelson since I first saw her designs show up at Cliché last fall before the designer had even graduated from design school at the U of M. (I even wore one of her designs from that collection to this show.) Her spring line further exhibited her ability to beautifully construct garments, her impressive adaptability in creating separates, and an increasingly-strengthened aesthetic that had her models styled with adorable animal ears and knee socks. The jackets were particularly impressive, something most designers hesitate to tackle until well into their design careers.

[Look by Tender Cuts; Image by Rod Hasse]

The collection was perfectly spring, in a pastel color palette with varying textures and patterns. This is exactly how I imagine dressing all spring - and summer. (Minus the animal ears, of course.)

[Look by Niki English; Image by Rod Hasse]

Ending the show with a dramatic finale was Niki English. English perhaps has the longest design history, having been carried at Cliché for some time now. The collection comprising edgy zippered jackets (a strength of English), leggings, skirts, tops and dresses in shiny, slinky fabrics. While it was easily the most dramatic collection of the night, so much black and slate gray seemed a little dark for spring. Despite their intended dramatic impact, her pointy-shoulder minidresses literally fell a little flat, points dropping in odd directions, and by now, the bold-shoulders look popular last fall felt a little dated. But dug the elastic leg pieces English made to add to the impact of the line.

[Look by Niki English; Image by Rod Hasse]

Where English shone most brightly was with looks such as her draped and pleated pants, paired with a crop top and sleeveless vest, showing the designer does indeed have her finger on the pulse of the moment. Though English clearly aimed to show less ready-to-wear pieces than the other designers, it would've been nice to see some of the more wearable pieces in her collection, such as these, that still incorporate her signature look. After the show, English told us she was heading to New York for the summer and fall to intern at Zac Posen. (We wish her luck, despite the fact that she certainly doesn't need it!)

These designers were smart to bond together - five heads are better than one when it comes to taking on such an endeavor. Calamity! presented a sure sign that the local fashion industry is alive and well.

Jahna Peloquin is the Fashion Editor for l'etoile magazine and a freelance writer and stylist based out of Minneapolis.

All photos by Rod Hasse and Adam Reyna. Click here for more images by Rod Hasse.