In review: Joynoelle's "The Caged Bird" Spring 2012 Collection

Text by Beth Hammarlund, l'étoile Founder & Creative Director
Photos by Corey Tenold, special to l'étoile

In lieu of a high-production runway show, Joy Teiken of Joynöelle presented her Spring 2012 collection in an intimate showcase at The Grand Café on Monday evening. With its limited capacity, the bistro was an unconventional choice, but the warmth and style of the venue served as a natural compliment to the collection.


Models wove the through the restaurant in cocktail dresses and evening gowns in a simple palette of black, ivory, brown and deep red. Teiken had drawn inspiration for the collection from "the caged bird," ornamenting garments in cascades of wispy feathers. In the evening's most literal moment, a delicate black cage pattern subtly echoed a windowpane plaid.

Several of the black and white looks veered perilously toward french maid territory, but Teiken exercised restraint before any of her work became costume. The designer knows her aesthetic and her audience, and she knows the right moment to pull back.

A selection of bridal gowns closed the show, including an incredibly detailed finale gown that earned frenzied whispers of approval from the audience. The look was classic Joynölle, vintage-inspired whimsy and fine detail. But above all, the elegantly constructed gown looked expensive, which is one of the highest compliments a designer can receive.

[l'étoile's Beth Hammarlund, Emma Berg, Joy Teiken, and l'étoile's Jahna Peloquin]

[Kitty Cotten, Kara Nesvig & Amy Gee]

View more photos by Corey Tenold here.

MNfashion Week in review: Joynoelle Spring 2011 Collection 9/23

Text by Jahna Peloquin
Photos by Tara Sloane

The Wild West. Seventies bohemia. Studio 54. For their Spring 2011 collections, fashion designers have taken inspiration from an around-the-world variety of places. But for her spring line for Joynoelle, longtime local designer Joy Teiken took inspiration from an unusual source: the whimsical tales of Dr. Seuss. With such a childlike theme, seeing how this would translate into the wardrobe of Teiken's chic clientele posed an intriguing concept.


Thursday night at the rooftop penthouse of the International Market Square, Teiken debuted her Spring 2011 bridal and ready-to-wear collections in two sold-out, salon-style showings. Amidst the clean surroundings of the loft were Seussian props and signage, setting the stage for a character-driven show (separated into segments with names like "A Scrambled Egg Supper" and "Put Me in the Zoo"). The designer's signature style took an appropriately humorous, yet no less sophisticated turn, with the addition of top hats onto the heads of many a model.


Elsewhere, the inspiration was less overt - the poof-hemmed silhouette of a youthful wedding dress (said to be inspired by Cindy Lou Who), the "Cat in the Hat" dress and coat with a fabric shading technique inspired by the drawings in that book.


And perhaps the first time, the designer incorporated her vintage-inspired aesthetic and smart fabrications into separates, in addition to her usual confectionary dresses. But while it was fun to see Teiken stepping out of her comfort zone onto edgier ground, some of the separates (such as the gray-and-pink charmeuse draped top and silver leather pants) looked out of place in such a whimsical collection.


Teiken's layered raw-edge silk construction was better suited to her extremely chic one-shouldered cocktail dress, tailored yet feminine.


Among her more classic Joynoelle pieces was a crochet-lace tea-length dress - charmingly sweet in fabrication while avoiding the saccharine thanks to a sleek silhouette.


Also inspired was her incorporation of burlap into high-end looks - a tailored jacket, a charming dress trimmed is raw-edged pink and navy silk (also featured in our fall MNfashion Week spread), an edgy mini skirt.

Though she clearly knows her customer and her style, Teiken showed she's not without a few tricks - and fresh inspiration - up her sleeve.

Click HERE for more photos by Tara Sloane.