In review: Macy's Glamorama

Text by Beth Hammarlund, founder & creative director, l'etoile magazine
Photos by Corey Tenold, exclusive to l'etoile magazine


Macy's annual fashion presentation Glamorama is one of the most anticipated spectacles of the year - a chance for Minnesotans to see runway design as it is meant to be seen. This annual benefit for the Children's Cancer Research Fund brings high fashion to Minneapolis, showing collections ranging from Armani Jeans to Sonia Rykiel.

This year's benefit, subtitled "ARTrageous," featured live music by Far East Movement and headliner Bruno Mars, as well as choreography by local legend Myron Johnson, founder of Ballet of the Dolls and creative director of the Ritz Theater in Northeast Minneapolis. Though Johnson delivered his trademark dynamic choreography, his choices were fairly predictable, the opening number consisting of the done-and-done mash-up of ballet and hip hop dance. Perhaps Glamorama isn't the best environment for envelope-pushing dance, but it would have been exciting to see the legendary artist take more risks.

The collections themselves were well-modeled and styled, but due to the auditorium seating of the Orpheum Theatre, most audience members were too far from the stage to appreciate the details. When Far East Movement and Bruno Mars performed, swooping cameras on cranes captured close-ups which were projected onto large screens. This production element could have beautifully enhanced viewing the collections, allowing attendants to truly appreciate the craftsmanship of the work being presented.

Following the opening dance performance, the first collection to hit the stage was that of iconic French designer Sonia Rykiel. The styling successfully captured the eccentric attitude of the knitwear icon's aesthetic, while presenting her pieces as wearable and consumer-friendly fashion. Next, models strutted in cocktail dresses and suiting by fellow Parisian Jean Paul Gaultier, the styling toned down from the original runway but still maintaining the essence of Gaultier's original presentation. Tracy Reese's '70s-influenced city glam collection was a major winner with the audience, but the finale collection by Marc Jacobs felt oddly brief - almost like an afterthought.

[Sonia Rykiel]

[Sonia Rykiel]

[Jean Paul Gaultier]

[Tracy Reese]

[Marc Jacobs]

[Karl Lagerfeld for Impulse at Macy's]
[Bar III]

The chic presentation of womenswear clashed awkwardly with the way the menswear was shown. Whenever a male model removed his sunglasses or flashed a smile, audience members screamed like bachelorettes at Chippendale's. Though the display left me feeling a bit embarrassed, I couldn't help but gasp during the showcase for Miami-based men's underwear line Papi. The crowd erupted in whoops and hollers as the entire stage was taken over by male models in tight boxer briefs, sporty knee socks, and oiled, sinewy muscle.

[Armani Jeans]

[Kenneth Cole Reaction]

[Papi]

The after-party, held on the eighth floor of Macy's Nicollet Mall location, presented a great opportunity for people-watching. Party-goers' outfits ranged from conservative to risqué and traditional to fashion-forward. A body-painting booth adorned women's bare shoulders with reproductions of Andy Warhol's iconic Marilyn Monroe portrait, while groups of girlfriends lined up in a queue that wrapped around corners to have their photograph taken in a chicly styled photo booth. The "ARTrageous" theme was referenced in slideshows projected on multiple walls, though the selection of featured art included such a wide variety of works that it lacked cohesion, reading a little too much like Art History's Greatest Hits.

Despite the few technical issues and over-emphasis on entertainment over fashion, Minneapolis is still lucky to have such a high-profile, high-production event as Glamorama year after year, injecting the Midwest a welcome dose of international style.

[Bruno Mars]

[Far East Movement]

Click here for more photos by Corey Tenold

In Review: Macy's Glamorama

by Juleana Enright, with additional commentary from Chris Larson
Photos by Digital Crush's Stephen Stephens

This year, l'étoile's art director, Chris Larson, and culture editor, Juleana Enright, were summoned to shed their stigma of Glamorama virgins and review this year's Macy's Passport showcase. What resulted is a series of play-by-play highlights and some sassy commentary, condensed for your reading pleasure.

Poised to deliver all the glitz, glam, couture, magic, and scantily-clad men audience goers could handle, this year's Glamorama certainly pulled out all the stops. From ready-to-wear runway fashions from top fashion designers to mini-concerts by pop sensations, Macy Gray and Eric Hutchinson, Glamorama power-packed its way through the evening in support of the Children's Cancer Research Fund.

To kick things off party goers met up on Seven's ultra-chic rooftop garden for sushi, complimentary cocktails and socialite hobnobbing. We were then promptly ushered over to the Orpheum Theatre for the fantasy-ridden fashion event. Inside the theater, things we spotted right away were fashion-forwards, a few fashion faux pas and cougars, cougars and more cougars...and Project Runway's Chris March. March recently designed Meryl Streep's Oscar dress and should never be confused with a cougar. Harris Milsdtead, maybe, but never a cougar.

Fashion-foward cuties (and future cougars?) Beth Lorraine Bowman, Kris Vruno Huson and Jackie Bateman

Lights dimmed, techno pounded through the auditorium and a figure's head reminiscent of Max Headroom appeared on the big LCD screen, enthusiastically welcoming guests to Glamorama. The touching story of 13-year-old cancer survivor, Emma Laehn, then played on the screen, a reminder to guests the great cause Glamorama funds uphold. After the video, little Emma Laehn strolled out with singer/songwriter, Eric Hutchinson, (in a funky, teen-appropriate outfit) to welcome guests and officially start the show. It's no wonder the youth ambassador looked so trendy—local Project Runway star, Christopher Straub helped her with a shopping spree at Macy's in Southdale earlier that week, not to mention took her for a tour of his Eden Prairie studio.

Eric Hutchinson & Emma Laehn

Pleasantries concluded and we were segued into a blue-lit theatrical dance number with black unitard ballet dancers and suspended models draped in dark carnival, Victorian-esque Chris March gowns – just one of many dance theatrics we would experience throughout the course of the evening.

Haute fashion was up next in the form of all-American designs from Tommy Hilfiger. With version's of nostalgic 60's hits as musical accompaniment, the models strutted out wearing classically cut pieces with a definite modern edge. We were relieved to see Hilfiger's looks follow more on the side of upscale, Virginia contemporary fashion than khaki-heavy/sporty.

Chris: Not sure this 60's psychedelic motif says Tommy to me but I like the looks more than most Tommy stuff.

French fashion designer and grand couturier, Jean Paul Gaultier gave us an international taste of fall fashion with looks inspired by traditional Russian and European styles. Models flaunted ushankas, colorful and vivacious headpieces – including a crown adorned with colossal horns – Norwegian-chic outerwear, Eskimo-esque accessories and dresses with subtle Asian-influenced tapestry.

Versace's men's collection brought a little testosterone into the theater in the form of a wall of Matrix-y dressed men – which instantly revved up the cougars – and showcased some stunningly glam men's wear.

Chris: Sounds like cougar den in the Orpheum. Juleana: Wow, it's like no one has ever seen men before.

Acoustic soul-pop artist, Eric Hutchinson, delighted audiences with his foot tapping soft rock hits and just as equally confused them by asking for double-hand claps during his songs.

Juleana: So this Eric Hutchinwhatever is a straight man's Elton John? That's no fun! Where's the beef? Chris: It's like Jamie Lidell lite and Jason Mraz had a baby...But in a good way?

“Queen of Knits” French designer, Sonia Rykiel, dazzled us with her collection of sheer delicates paired with over-sized pull-overs and jersey-style knitwear – once again showcasing her talent for creating versatile knitwear.

Chris: The drop crotch tapered taupe jumper is my fave. This is definitely the chicest yet.

Chic quickly morphed into pop lockin' urban as a group of America's Best Dance Crew-looking boys fiercely took the stage to show their mad skills to Xbox's dance challenge video game, Dance Central.

Chris: Yes! Dance Central! Want.

Things got mildly confusing when Madonna's collection "Material Girl" took the stage heralded in by a flock of overly made-up zippy teens and tweens dancing to infamous Madonna tunes and videos. The looks were classic '80s throwback – ripped tapered denims, colorful jean pants, cropped tanks, studded pumps, tu-tu skirts – nothing we haven't seen before. And truthfully, we were a little too distracted by over zealous teeny boppers to focus on the clothes. And after seeing one teen sporting the half-shaved other side long, asymmetric doo, I was cured of ever wanting that haircut. It did, however, have us jonesing to vogue to Madonna later.

Juleana: Madonna dance party after this? You in?? Chris: mabes. I don't know how well I can dance in this Kevin Kramp.

Just Cavalli returned with another 60's-influenced line that recalled Yoko and Marianne Faithful.

Philosophy Di Alberta Ferretti's dark line had us completely enthralled.

But it was Marc Jacobs impeccable collection that really stole the show. The sophisticated designer showcased a line of ready-wear elegants that screamed sexy librarian and even rocked a backdrop of a giant architectural wooden door that looked surprising like the door to a courtroom.

Juleana: The other MJ. Chris: Marc Jacobs set is judge Judy chic. Guilty!!! (of being very cool).

Japanese designer Issey Miyake debuted his line of J-pop-inspired fashions. Also a definite Glamorama moment.

Chris: If Stevie Nicks was a soldier, she'd wear those gathered pants.

The fashion section of the show wrapped up with a burlesque runway/dance performance by the Felina collection and a line from Jezebel that had us thinking we had just been transported to the MPLS club, Ground Zero.

Juleana: Mistress Jean? Is that you??

The grand climax came from 2(X)IST that was – again – cougar approved and testosterone-ridden. Bring on the scantily-clad studs!

Juleana: Ladies and gays, and now the moment you've all been waiting for, men in tighty whities. Chris: I feel like I'm in an episode of 'Queer as Folk. Juleana: Those abs don't even look human! Chris: Be careful ladies, you might chip a tooth.

A jazzy performance from the gorgeous Macy Gray donning a stunning satin gold and black dress took us to the finale. And as Star-shaped paper mache descended down from the ceiling, we were off to the after-party.

Held on the 8th floor and adjacent rooftop at Macy's Downtown, the after party space was lit up like a cavernous raver's delight with black lights, throbbing DJ spun tunes, body painted hula-hoopers and – you guessed it – glow sticks, or glow rings rather. It was reminiscent of a Kingman party and left us wondering who was gonna pull out the party favors and start the backrub circle.

Kingman, where art thou?

There was even a Dance Central machine – yes the very same one from the show, only much smaller of course – which – after a few cocktails Project Healthy Smile Co-Founder/Executive Director, Hollie Mae, and I decided to bust a move on.

Through the space was access to Macy's much classier laid out rooftop space. With free drinks, delicious appetizers, a dance-floor spewing prime 90's and early 2000's jams and a stunning view backdrop the city skyline, it was the obvious choice to chill.

All and all the night was robust with entertainment, tasty cocktails, haute fashion, and style-forged conversation.

For a full gallery of images by Stephen Stephens click HERE.

Glamorama 8/14

Our own Stephen Stephens hit up Glamorama 2009 and snapped more snazzy pix than we know what to do with! Check out his photo set of the event on the Digital Crush site!

CLICK THE IMAGE FOR THE PHOTOS!

In the make-up chair with Glamorama's Alex Sanchez

By Jahna Peloquin



Being the lead make-up artist for a show as colossal as Glamorama is no small feat. It takes months of preparation, from the time the Fall collections hit the runway in February to the day of the show. It takes an innate ability to combine artistry with technical skill, and the practical skills to bring a team together to create cohesive looks that translate smoothly from runway segment to segment.

This year marks the third time Chicago-based make-up artist Alex Sanchez has taken the reins as lead make-up artist. A National Make-up Artist for Lancome, Alex has worked with such high-profile models - né, supermodels - as Liya Kebede, Alek Wek, Eva Herzigova and Karen Elson. He also has worked backstage at New York Fashion Week for Badgley Mischka and Tracy Reese, and has been the sole make-up artist for Chris Benz at Chicago Fashion Week.

So when, during my interview with him for my Glamorama story for Vita.mn, he offered to do my make-up to show me some of the fall trends in person, I couldn't pass up the opportunity.



On the fall make-up trends he incorporated into the show, he had this to say: "There’s going to be a really smoldering smoky eye, which is a perennial favorite for fall. Another trend is that the eyebrow is back - a really structured, architectural, polished eyebrow. Sometimes there there is a focus on either the eyes or the lips, and this year you can have both. The eyes and the lips are equally dramatic and defined. Perfect eyes perfect brows and a perfect mouth. Red lips are also big."

For me, he chose to focus on the eyes, giving me a perfect smoky eye (Lancome's Golden Audacity shadow palette), complete with a faux lashes and a touch of glitter on the lids. The nude, iridescent lip (Lelaque Fever lip color - a lipstick and gloss in one) gave me almost a '60s mod feel.

Alex couldn't have been more kind and gracious - and it doesn't hurt that he's easy on the eyes!



Here's a selection of some unpublished quotes from my interview with Alex: Why he loves doing Glamorama: "It's one of the most extraordinary fashion shows in the entire country. The production values are amazing, it’s a fusion of music and fashion and there’s all sorts of great dynamic set changes. It's really very fantastic."

On the difference between doing a traditional runway show versus Glamorama: "When you’re working with a designer it’s all about their vision, and with this show it’s a little more theater, so I have a voice and it's great. I can get very creative with it." On the creative process leading up to the show: "It’s a collaboration with the fashion office, and the whole concept. You play upon your own references, your own heroes and style icons, and you put a modern spin on it. It’s very fast-paced from the beginning, preparing for about two months. I do illustrations of the look, I do some photography with the models to see from the illustration to having it be on a real woman, to see how that translates."

On where he gets his inspiration: "I get inspiration from everything – architecture, fashion heroes, art – and for this it’s a very glamorous look, kind of Studio 54-esque. Debbie Harry is a big influence of mine, and Stephen Sprouse."

Visit Vita.mn for the full story on Glamorama and l'etoile magazine for Jahna's full interview with Laura Schara.

Q&A with Glamorama Fashion Director Laura Schara

by Jahna Peloquin

Macy’s annual fashion event, Glamorama, has been around for 21 years – that’s longer than the storefront’s multiple incarnations (i.e., Dayton Hudson, Marshall Field’s) and its multiple changes in name (originally Fash Bash, the event was also called A Cause For Applause before finally settling on Glamorama). Year after year, the show’s organizers have done an amazing job of getting big-name designer collections – Marc Jacobs, we’re looking at you – shown in the Midwest. We sat down and talked with the woman largely responsible for that, Glamorama’s fashion director Laura Schara.




Jahna: We’re really excited to get the chance to talk to you about Glamorama. We’ve always been curious about how the show comes together year after year.

Laura: Of course!

Jahna: What are your responsibilities as Fashion Director for Glamorama?

Laura: My main role is that I secure all the designer segments for Glamorama, and I also hire all the models, freelance stylists, dressers, and alterations teams. I’m in charge of every single look - how it’s styled when it comes down the runway, and of course doing all the fittings – it’s a very meticulous process.

Jahna: How far out do you start planning the show? Can you give us a general timeline of when you do what?

Laura: It takes about a year and a half to work out the basic theme. It all starts in February at Fashion Week in New York, looking at all the fall collections. We want to make sure that we’re cohesive, and see if there are new designers who haven’t been featured before. Then I meet with designer reps in New York to select designer samples. I give them a list of looks that I’d like to receive based on our buy as well as the runway pieces - the ooh ahh looks that everyone wants to see. Also it’s set in a theater versus a tent, so we want to make sure they jump out the stage. Starting in March and April, we start doing model casting around the country. We look at around 400 to 500 models in L.A., New York, Chicago, and Minneapolis. We have two models in the show that are from Minneapolis. We have featured on Minnesotan model in the past (Dannielle Zephier with Moore) but this year a young gal with Vision (Greta Sundquist) really stuck out to us and had a great look.

Jahna: And right now?

Laura: Right now we are just reconfirming all the models – that is a huge puzzle, getting 40-some models here from all over the country. Working with numerous agencies from all over the country, getting them the info they need, all those little minute details - just getting those 40 bodies into one room is a huge task in itself. Fittings happen August 9 - we fit that show for approximately ten hours straight. It’s a long day, but we choose to fit as one long group so I can look at the group as one full collection instead of fitting individual times to make sure the segments are looking cohesive. We continue to tweak the looks when we got into dress rehearsal later in the week. I’m also communicating with the designer looks to make sure the looks we are getting are coming in. Obviously there are other people who want the looks that are possibly being used for other shoots and events. We keep the samples for quite a long time – we have it for about three weeks. But the designers trust us and it’s a high-profile, high-end event that they really love. And (the reps) love to attend it..

Jahna: Who are your favorite designers? Marc Jacobs must be one of them.

Laura: We switch it up – Gaultier wasn’t in the show for a few years, same with Sonia Rykiel. Marc Jacobs is always in, he always seems to set the mood for other designers and trends. So when they agree to be in Glamorama we love it. Gaultier this year is fierce – it’s definitely going to be one of my favorites in the show. Just Cavalli is great, their segment is always hot and sexy. This year we have PHILOSOPHY di Alberta Ferretti – they’ve never been in the show before. (Ed. Note: Other designers in this year’s show are Sportmax, MaxMara, and CNC Costume National.)

Jahna: What are some of the fall trends you’re highlighting for this year’s show?

Laura: The whole rocker chic, ‘80s glam-rock look is definitely highlighted in the show this year, with everything from leather to studs to acid-washed denim. A lot of mixing prints and patterns, plaids, shoulder interest – the whole bold shoulder. There’s a lot of pinks and berries, hot pink being a huge trend for fall. You know you’ll hit every trend across the board with this designer list. There’s a great assortment of what you’ll see this fall. It’s very inspirational and they go very over the top but you’ll be able to interpret it your own way.

Jahna: Have you ever gotten to meet any of the designers?

Laura: I have, I have worked with Michael Kors in the past, I have met Diane Von Furstenberg. I have yet to meet Marc himself. I’ve been to the room sewing with Zac Posen - I’ve worked with his mom, right where they’re sewing the clothes, so that’s really cool to see.

Jahna: What’s the process for casting models? What do you look for?

Laura: Being it’s an hour-long show, there’s a lot of choreography that’s involved. Our models don’t walk down the runway with a blank store – we want our models to engage with our audience. I definitely look for a certain body shape because the clothing is samples. There’s a certain confidence we look for in a model’s walk. There are times we ask them to engage with the audience. We really diversified the group that we have, especially this year’s theme being “fusion.”


Macy's Glamorama: "A Night of Fashion and Fusion," featuring a look at fall designer collections and performances by Ne-Yo, the New Standards, and Kristinia DeBarge. 8 p.m. Fri. Orpheum Theatre, 910 Hennepin Av., Mpls. $75 (show only), $250+ for the show & post-party. www.childrenscancer.org.