Envision: Artopia in review

by Jahna Peloquin

Leave it to Allison Hamzehpour and Jessica Cunningham, founders of Ignite Models Inc., to throw one of the best-produced, see-and-be-seen fashion shows going down during MNfashion Week every season: Envision. The gorgeous ladies - both former models themselves - seem to balance running a fledgling modeling agency and throwing regularly occurring events with equal aplomb.

[A look from Bumbershute / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

This spring’s Envision was decadently subtitled “Artopia," a nod to the bright colors, painterly prints and voluminous silhouettes of the season, and the show’s boutiques and designers - not to mention lead stylist Alice Sydow of I've Got Your Style - didn’t come up short in this area. After an interactive hair show that featured hair stylists live in action on the runway, the show kicked off with spring looks from some of the Twin Cities’ most-loved local boutiques. Bumbershute showcased edgy body-con and glittering drapey dresses that would be at home in a Robert Palmer video or on the dance floor of Studio 54, respectively. (It didn’t hurt that the models were chic-ly styled with slicked back hair, bold red lips and kohl-rimmed eyes.)

[A look from Drama / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Next up, local boutique Drama offered looks that were perfectly feminine, modern and wearable in a simple black, white and grey palette - all the better when stylist Angie Hanson added a Drama-tic! touch with bold jeweled statement necklaces.

[A look from Elsworth / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Our fave destination for sophisticated menswear, Elsworth, was up next with a segment that merged its dapper aesthetic with a geek-chic style and street sensibility. Layered looks featuring cardigans, bowties and oxfords came down to earth with denim and just a little bit of swagger. And the propping was pure Keith Dorsett and Jordin Filas (the shop’s owner and manager, respectively) - one bespectacled model sauntered down the runway with a book in hand, while a bow-tied fellow took an umbrella with him, which upon opening revealed a graffiti art design. Who knew nerds could be so hot?

[A look from Cliche / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Local Motion, OPM and VState followed with a plethora of trends: Strong shoulders, feminine ruffles, and bold prints. But it was one of our all-time fave local boutiques, Cliche, that stole the show with denim-dominated and color-drenched looks topped with Carmen Miranda-inspired headpieces. Apparently, the fruit basket hats and headwraps were the ingenious handiwork of designer Emily Bryngelson and stylist Andrea Oseland. As a “guest judge,” I and the rest of the illustrious panel - Mary O’Regan of METRO Magazine, Allison Kaplan of Pioneer Press, Jen Boyles of City Pages, and Hollie Mae of HMStyling among others - chose Cliche as the clear winner of the boutique segment.

[A look by kjurek couture / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

After an intermission to refill our drinks and entertain ourselves by watching DJ Ken Hannigan bob his head to the beats along to a live soul singer, the second half of the show began. As usual, Kimberly Jurek’s kjurek couture was effortlessly chic, tempering her trademark bohemian flair with adorable skirts and ruffle-front dresses in a plethora of exotic, colorful prints. It was also exciting to see one of Jurek’s strongest pieces, the jacket, return to her collection.

[A look by Amanda Christine / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Amanda Christine showcased her tailored and extremely wearable dresses, skirts and tops that - thanks to textured cottons and printed silks juxtaposed with sharp cutout details - are as perfect for the yacht as for the dance club. Another longtime Cliche designer, Arwyn Birch, showed an increasingly diversified collection of dresses, incorporating lace and ruffles into her knit and belted designs.

[A look by Russell Bourrienne / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Esteemed local designer Russell Bourrienne yet again offered a fresh take on menswear in a collection of cropped trench coats in plaids, stripes citrus brights that had l’etoile magazine art director Chris Larson’s tongue watering. Our favorite piece had to be the hunter green-and-white plaid trench, which clearly deserves a spot in the wardrobe of Gossip Girl’s Chuck Bass.

[A look by Jenny Carle / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

Jenny Carle’s on-trend collection of denim and pastel dresses, skirts and tops exhibited the designer’s penchant for the sweet (bows, retro collars and ruffles). The designer appears to grow exponentially each season, her casual, girlish aesthetic tempered by a slightly bolder silhouette and luxurious fabrics, and increased attention to detail and fit. The whimsical woodland crowns were a nice touch.

[A look by Peloria / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

The dresses and separates by longtime Cliche line Peloria (by designer Korrin Lohmann) featured unusual cutouts,which worked in some cases, and seemed overwrought in others. Lohmann has always been known to incorporate a unique artistic perspective to her clothing, but it doesn’t always translate as wearable or flattering (or well-executed). However, the line did feature more tailored, sophisticated silhouettes than we’re used to seeing from the designer, and the juicy colors really set off the collection.

[A look by Rose White / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

The winner of the designer segment was the evening’s biggest mysteries to even those firmly entrenched in the fashion scene. The line, Rose White, came courtesy of recent St. Kate’s grad Amanda Chaffin, who once interned under Amanda Christine. The young designer came up with a au-courant collection of neutral separates that made up the most sophisticated line - and one of the most well-styled - of the evening. The drapey pants, one-shouldered tanks, gathered-waist skirts and elegant blouses didn’t exactly break the mold for originality, but it was a fresh, cohesive and well-executed statement from a designer who’s certainly one to watch. And: she did swimwear! Quite a feat, if you ask any designer. Accessorized with darling sheer white gloves and white gauzy veils, it felt classic yet perfectly now.

[A look by Sarah M. Holm / Photo by Chris McDuffie]

The show ended on a dark note with Sarah M. Holm’s nearly all-black collection. It struck us as overly derivative of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga, with headpieces completely enveloping the models’ faces and elongated sleeves straight out of a Tim Burton movie. But despite the darkness, the collection did cleverly play into spring via the idea of rain. The umbrella-shaped skirts and headpieces (finished with a drip-like effect) seemed a bit obvious and a little wonky, but the drip-shaped cutouts and black rubber rainboots were subtle and well-executed. Obviously, most of these looks are meant for only the fashionably brave, but, as Lee Alexander McQueen once said, “You have to push forward and realize the power of fantasy and escapism.”

All photos by Chris McDuffie.

MNFashion Week Recap #1: 9/17-9/18

By Jahna Peloquin, fashion editor

As New York Fashion Week winded its way down, MNfashion Week was just beginning. Though it officially kicked off Monday the 21st, the Twin Cities weren’t short on a surplus of fashion this past weekend. l’etoile Fashion Editor Jahna Peloquin hit the hot spots and gave us a recap.


Thursday, September 17, 2009

Image: Jahna, left, with Anna Lee and MNfashion board member Jessica Palkowitsch
[Images by Jahna Peloquin]

I kicked off the weekend early with An Evening at Eastcliff at the home and gardens of the President of the U of M in St. Paul. Though not officially an MNfashion Week event, MNfashion founder Anna Lee was on hand to address the crowd that gathered for the event put on by the Friends of the Goldstein (founded by local fashion icon Margot Siegel). We were served wine and hors d’oeuvres during the seated presentation and afterward mingled within the decadent surroundings.

(Image of Allison Quinnell with her design)

Anna Lee also brought in two local designers of her choosing, Amanda Christine and Allison Quinnell, who previewed their fall 2009 collections. Allison’s participation was fitting, as she graduated two years ago from the University of Minnesota’s apparel design program. The Voltage 2009 designer showed a gorgeous violet dress, modeled by Talia of Vision Models. She told me her fall collection, consisting of jewel tones with gem detailing, studding and ruffles, would be available soon at Drama and Design Collective.

(Designs by Amanda Christine)

Then there was Amanda Christine, one of my favorite designers to work with. I wore one of the pieces I had commissioned from her, a ruffled skirt based off a design she created for her spring 2009 collection, to the raves of the party-goers. She had two models with her wearing her fall designs: Zoby designer Heather DeLapp in a red plaid wiggle dress, Nikki Morris in a checked peplum top (which I also own), skirt and ingenious scarf-wrap. She makes them in a bunch of colors, and they’re currently available at Cliché and Drama for $40. Amanda wore one of her own ruffled pencil skirts.

Next, it was on to stop by Kingman Studios for this month’s edition of Gallery Grooves, co-hosted by Secrets of the City Arts Editor and l’etoile Editor-in-Chief Kate Iverson. It was the first time any of us could recall being at Kingman’s before midnight. The studio of artist Brant Kingman, one of the city’s indispensable characters, turned out to be a great place to mingle (and sip vodka drinks tinged with mint and served by Secrets publisher Kris Henning).

(Jahna at Drama with photographer Mike Feltault)
[Image courtesy Mjf Foto]

Then it was onto the grand re-opening party for local boutique Drama, which recently relocated from downtown Minneapolis to Uptown. There I ran into the fabulous Gretchen Williams, former Vita.mn Events Producer and gal-about-town, who was in town from NYC for the weekend. Once inside I also happened upon local designer Kimberly Jurek, who counts Drama as one of the many boutiques her line kjurek couture is carried. (Her solo show, Exclusively Fall, will be held at the W Hotel this Friday.)

As with every Thursday evening, I ended up at l’etoile’s weekly Project Runway viewing party at Hell’s Kitchen. Since Kate was caught up at Kingman’s, l’etoile publisher Beth Hammarlund was joined by her boyfriend and l’etoile Business Manager Brian Goielli for fashion trivia before the show. Fortunately, both of our homeboys Ra’mon-Lawrence Coleman and Christopher Straub managed to create great pieces, and were deemed safe by the judges.


Friday, September 18, 2009

After joining a bunch of well-connected peeps at a happy hour thrown by Gretchen Williams at Bev’s Wine Bar, I headed out to the Envision fall fashion show at the Graves 601 Hotel with Kate Iverson in tow. We started with fancy cocktails at downstairs bar Bradstreet, known for its “mixologists” (a fancy term for bartenders), and drinks in hand, headed to the sixth floor for the bi-annual runway show thrown by Ignite Modeling. Packed with more designers and boutiques than you could shake a stick at, the show is always a can’t-miss event on every local fashionista’s calendar. After traipsing through backstage to preview the looks and say hello to the models, we took our front-row seats (furnished with a swag bag that included a mini bottle of Grey Goose. Fancy!)

(Image of a look from Awryn Birch)
[Images by Josh Stokes/Stokes Foto]

From the beginning, the show was full of class and sophistication. It started off with a lone violinist who took a stroll down the runway, backed by a bumpin’ beat. (“Is that Ross from Friends?” Kate cheekily commented.) Then Arwyn Birch’s models hit the runway, in plaid coats with bell sleeves, hoods, and oversized buttons. They were surprisingly chic coming from a designer known for her simple, wearable knit dresses. The hair and makeup styling, by Rocco Altobelli stylists and L. Mae Artistry, respectively, superbly showed current fall trends and provided a seriously chic consistency to the show.

(Image of a look from Emily Weich)
[Images by Josh Stokes/Stokes Foto]

Emily Weich’s collection followed. The designer’s strengths are in concept, styling and a whimsical charm, but it was hard to tell what she was going for based on the four looks we were presented with. Some of the looks erred on the side of too sexy – one included a fur wrap, a black silk minidress that looked like a nightie, and black sheer thigh-highs worn with garters. The shredded fur stole the designer herself wore, however, was an intriguing, edgy piece when worn simply with skinny jeans and pumps.

(Image of a look from Kjurek Couture)
[Images by Josh Stokes/Stokes Foto]

(Image of a look from Amanda Christine)
[Images by Josh Stokes/Stokes Foto]

Next up were kjurek couture and Amanda Christine. Kimberly Jurek’s collection included a lot of cowl neck and ruffle neck details, waist-tie belts, and warm fall tones and pops of bright orange, worn with statement feather earrings by Zoby. (I’ll review her collection in full after Friday’s show at the W.) The standout of Amanda’s collection was a black-and-white belted jacket with three-quarter-length sleeves – a perfect excuse to buy some black leather elbow-length gloves this fall.

(Image of a look from Jenny Carle)
[Images by Josh Stokes/Stokes Foto]

Next up, Jenny Carle (also in this Saturday’s SCENEaSOTA show) showed her usual wearable strapless sheath dresses, which I’ve been told are a hot seller at Cliché. Her addition of cropped jackets and longer dresses showed her desire to grow in range, but the construction and fabric choices seemed a bit off. It was apparent that the long blue dress, while nice in concept, constrained the model’s legs as she attempted to walk down the runway, and her colorful print tunic rode up to reveal a peek of the model’s bum.

(Image of a look from Russell Bourrienne)
[Images by Josh Stokes/Stokes Foto]

Then we got to menswear designer Russell Bourrienne, a longtime staple of the local fashion industry. When it comes to construction and fit, no one does it better than Russell, and too few designers create menswear in this city. While sometimes his spring collections are a bit off to me stylistically, his fall collections are consistently strong. He showed his usual coats and jackets in plaid, orange and olive green military-grade wools, but added a twist with button and belted detail on the pant legs. After the show, he told me he was inspired by the burgeoning Steampunk movement, and I thought it was smart of him to incorporate unusual details with classic tailoring. It would be interesting to see how he would translate his aesthetic into womenswear.

(Image of a look from Peloria)
[Images by Josh Stokes/Stokes Foto]

Local designer Peloria and some looks from boutique Local Motion followed. Peloria showed her usual quirkiness with asymmetrical hemlines and collars, and styled her models in very Prada-esque stocking caps and flats. While I appreciated the unique styling, I wish she would’ve chosen more expensive-looking fabrics; these knits have an unfortunate tendency to bunch at the seams.

[At La Nouvelle Femme with Emma Berg and Anna Lee]
[image by Mjf Photo]

Though the show was only half over at this point, I had to rush out to catch Calpurnia Peach’s runway segment at La Nouvelle Femme at the Varsity Theater. In my rush, I was pulled over for speeding (fortunately I didn’t get a ticket), and missed the show (which started earlier than I was told). When I spotted Peach co-designer Luci Kandler, she offered to take me backstage to view the garments up close, and promised me pictures.

[Images by Charlie B. Ward]

I love the deep plum color and gold-leaf print of this dress. It should be a choice look come the holidays.


Another highlight was this ruffle-skirt dress with a charming whale print. The best part may be the back, which features a cut-out detail tied together with a bow.


Here we have somewhat of a departure from the duo known primarily for mini-dresses and one-piece jumpers. However, I feel the pairing of a long-sleeved shirt and full-length skirt seems stodgy and forced.

All in all, the show seemed to be a charming affair that pulled in an eclectic crowd. Having it at the newly-remodeled Varsity (boasting an expanded bar and capacity) didn’t hurt – it’s one of the most magical places to see a show in the Twin Cities, and was a definite step up in ambition and scope for the collective of artists, musicians and designers.

MNfashion Week is off to a swinging start! Look for more fashion show reviews and event recaps later this week.

For l'etoile's full schedule of official MNFashion Week events click HERE
For more info on the MNFashion Organization click HERE